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Autumn in Montepulciano, a walk through history, Tuscany Travel Guide

In this time of year, with the crisp fall weather, this quaint city offers you everything you can wish for; a medieval town where the hearts of art lovers start to beat a little faster, surrounded by beautiful nature for long walks under the golden brown trees and some of the best food and wines in the world. Montepulciano is constructed along a limestone ridge at 600 meters above sea level

Montepulciano is a typical renaissance town in Southern Tuscany and an important agricultural centre, famous for its "Nobile" wine. It lies on a hilltop in a panoramic position and is surrounded by the 15th century defensive works by "Antonio da Sangallo". The birthplace of the famous poet Angelo Ambrogini, known as "il Poliziano". This town has preserved many architectural jewels and art treasures along side the natural beauty of the surrounding countryside.

To reach Montepulciano take the A1 motorway (between Rome and Florence) to the Val di Chiana exit and follow the signs. You will arrive under the walls of the city and you find a free parking spot, right of the petrol station. The church, you see is the Saint Agnese, which was build in 1306, and expanded in 1317, when it was given the elegant Gothic door (the fa?ade dates from 1935!). The chapel inside is dedicated to Santa Caterina da Siena and has some beautiful frescos. Flanking the altar, there are two paintings from the Temple of Saint Biagio (the altar itself contains the body of Saint Agnese).

Saint Agnese, the patron saint of Montepulciano, was born in the neighbourhood of the town in 1268 and died over here in 1317. At the age of nine years she entered a monastery. Four years later she was commissioned by Pope Nicholas IV to assist in the foundation of a monastery at Proceno and became its prioress at the age of fifteen. She established (1298) the celebrated convent of Dominican nuns at Montepulciano, which she governed until the time of her death. She was canonized by Benedict XIII in 1726 and her feast is celebrated on the 20th of April.

When you exit the church, cross the street and follow the 12th century walls, you are on the main street of Montepulciano, the "Via di Gracciano" or "the Corso", stretching for 11.5 kilometres from the Porta al Prato to the Piazza Grande at the top of the hill. Along side this street, you will find almost all the major attractions of the city;

Porta al Prato
Porta al Prato which Antonio da Sangallo renewed, adding decorative elements. It consists of an inner and an outer gate, and had a roof until it was bombed during the Second World War.
Palazzo Avignonesi
With its ancient facade and the two lion heads flanking the entrance.
Palazzo Tusci
Where the cellars form a labyrinth of tunnels under the street. Here you can find in addition to casks of wine, an odd collection of medieval weapons and torture instruments. Climbing the stairs at the end of the tour, you will find the door of an Etruscan tomb dug into the earth.
Palazzo Bucelli
When Pietro Buccelli renovated his family palace in the early 1700s he incorporated many pieces from his collection of antique sculptures in the fa?ade. So creating an odd outdoor museum, consisting of fragments from urns, friezes and other ornaments.
Saint Agostino
Just beyond Palazzo Buccelli is Saint Agostino, which rises up imposingly, giving the impression of being much too large for the small amount of space, it is given in the street. The facade is by Michelozzo, and inside you can find famous works by artists, like Cesare Nebbia da Orvieto, Barroccio and (supposedly) Donatello. As you exit the church you will see the Torre della Pulcinella, a 15th century tower with a statue of Pulcinella, who strikes the hours with his stick.
Palazzo Cervini

Palazzo Cervini was the home of Cardinal Marcello Cervini, who ruled Italy as Pope Marcello II for a few days in 1555. It is one of Montepulciano's most elegant buildings, and is somehow vaguely reminiscent of Florence's Palazzo Pitti. The two wings create what one might call a "semi-court", an open space in front of the building that remains distinct from the street. According to popular tradition Antonio da Sangallo took part in its design.

Intermezzo

Maybe you already start to feel hungry and feel for intermezzo. A little further is the Caffe Poliziano, which has a delightful Libe decor, fine coffee and a magnificent view over the valley.

The Chiesa del Gesu
The Chiesa del Gesu, whose simple prick facade hides a Baroque interior by Andrea Pozzo, the great trompe-l'oeil painter, who did the "false" cupola in Rome's Saint Ignazio. The statues, cornices, and columns are all frescos painted on the walls.
The birthplace of Angelo Ambrogini
The birthplace of Angelo Ambrogini, Il Poliziano, who fled to Florence following the assassination of his father, becoming friend and advisor to Duke Lorenzo il Magnifico. In Italy and especially in Tuscany his poems are still recited.
Santa Maria dei Servi

Santa Maria dei Servi, which has wondrous Baroque stuccos by Andrea Pozzo, and a Madonna with Child attributed to Duccio di Boninsegna.

At the top of the hill is the fortress, which looks old but was almost entirely rebuilt in 1885; recent excavations have shown that it is built over a Roman temple dedicated to Mercury. Continue the Via San Donato to Piazza Grande.

Town hall

The facade of the town hall, which bears a considerable resemblance to Florence's Palazzo Vecchio, is designed by Michelozzo. At the right is the Duomo, which was constructed between 1561 and 1680. Seen from the outside the building looks oddly broad, inside the Duomo is large, but not as voluminous as one might expect.

There are a number of beautiful statues, including a "Madonna with Child" by Benedetto da Maiano and Taddeo di Bartolo's triptych of "the Virgin Enthroned", which is extraordinary, because of its scenes from the life of the Virgin, the Passion of Christ, and different local saints. Give some extra ttention to Saint Antilia, who is in the right-hand panel, she is carrying a painting of Montepulciano as it appeared in those days.

Palazzo Cantucci

Palazzo Cantucci will be to the right as you walk out the Duomo. Its construction began in 1518 under the direction of Antonio da Sangallo and continued until after his death in 1534 (his contribution stops where the bricks begin). The great hall on the ground floor has frescos by Andrea Pozzo, and can be visited upon request. Antonio da Sangallo has also worked on the palace facing the Duomo, Palazzo de'Nobili Tarugi; he designed the elegant well next to the palace, skilfully pairing griffins and lions, symbols of Florence and Montepulciano. To the right of Palazzo Cantucci is Via del Teatro, which leads to the Teatro Poliziano, a beautiful 18th century theatre now used, among other things, for the international music festival Montepulciano hosts in the summer. A little further down the street is the Museo Civico, which has a number of pleasant works, and also architectural marbles taken from Montepulciano's palaces.

There are many exhibitions, fairs and markets hold throughout the year in Montepulciao. Worth mentioning are the "Fiera di Sant'Agnese", on the first of May and the "Fiera della Maesta del Ponte", in September.

Monthly, there is an antique market in the historic centre of the town.

In the high season, the month of August, the town is changed even more in a medieval city, when the festivals of "Il Bruscello" and "Bravio della Botti" take place. Il Bruscello is a kind of medieval cabaret where everybody is dressed in original 14th and 15th century costumes. There is all kind of plays, originated from local history and larded with ancient Tuscan songs.

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  • Bravio della Botti is really something different and absolutely worth a visit, to see where it is all about.